Lead home made casting pot Magmaw 17 of 20

It would be best to start at the first post on this project. The internet is a wonderful thing but for some reason some people are taken to the 17th post for this project. To start from the beginning click here and at the end of each post on the project you can click to go to the next post in order. You can also use the side bar and scroll down to the first post. This will not be a wast of time as there is so much useful information on this site in using your gun, reloading, bullet casting and a lot of other information. I am not selling the instructions for this project you will see what you need to do to build this project on the 20 posts

10/32 inch on one end and 3/8 on the other this allowed me to construct this coupling into the hinge joint

  This chapter will describe how to make all the parts you will see safely by the end of this post- so there is no reason to use the method I am about to describe. After all a little extras time is a small price to pay for a safe construction job.

 MAKING CHOP SAW PARTS-- Emergency application only not a safe solution for parts construction. Do not try this at home.The purpose of this part of the blog is to show what could be done in an emergency and nothing more. Every part you will see below could have been made with hacksaws and files and a drill press but more time consuming. If our national sovereignty was ever threatened from within or from without then understanding how to misuse tools to make a fast product could be critical to national survival. Mentioned earlier a chop saw can seriously, maim, blind or kill. The blade is brittle and easily broken-- traveling at near bullet speed so a large chunk could do some serious damage. 

I have had some extended use of the chop saw and felt comfortable enough to do what you are about to see. (But I was not really that comfortable!)

Lever connecting hole. The coupling was 3/8 inch on one end and the other end was 10/32 this allowed me to make the part without having to tap the threads for the hole where the 3/8 rod screwed in 

1 foot 3/8 inch bolt  allowed me to use the chop saw to make the grove for the handle. The end of the bolt will obviously be shortened. The point of the valve is like a cheap yellow pencil with a stubby angle  this was sharpened on a bench grinder and cut off in tell I got good at it then the bolt was cut to the right length and sharpened appropriately. The drain hole is nothing more than a 1/4 inch hole drilled in the bottom of the pot   

File work finished the job

Metal base

Scrap from another project 

Grove cut by a chop saw close to the size of the future handle. When the cut was made the part was pressed sideways to the blade slowly expanding the width of the grove. The grove was finished with a file.

Note the size of the chop saw blade, there is very little left . I am thinning the part so as to eliminate some file work.

Note the rough condition of the part but a lot of metal was removed 

Filing did not take long

Vice grips held both ends and the chop saw cut it in half but the metal was spreed open when it got near to the end of the cut to keep it from pinching the blade. Note what is left of the front fender  to the right  that I made the front cover of the casting pot out of. The fender was barley tall enough to make the front cover. To conserve metal I used the chop saw to make the cut to remove most of the needed part. Here to grate care was needed so the fender did not pinch the chop saw blade.

Another large scrap used to make the fulcrum in the photo above. Note the change in the color of the steel from the heat from the chop saw. In my book I disuse the colors and changes necessary to harden metal to make emergency gun parts (or the whole gun). Though this piece of metal did not go through the whole process necessary to harden the part it is an excellent example of what you would be looking for during some of the color changes. Purple in the upper left hand corner makes things chisel hard and straw yellow to the bottom right removes the brittle nature of the metal after hardening.

Filing a finish on the fulcrum

Smoothed on all sides

A hand grinder rounder the corners, Note the small size of the worn out chop saw blade . It would be to dangerous to use a full sized blade

Note the overkill on the parts size for the fulcrum and the tower, this will allow for the use of a stick welder with no chance of destroying the parts. This auto valve spring was in my junk bucket and is really old, I do not remember what type of car it came from . The pot valve rod was put in the center of the hole and the parts were marked for welding. The holes in the valve rod hinge bracket and fulcrum were drilled with a #19 drill bit. A 10/32 screw fits perfectly in the holes and two 10/32 nuts on each screw will be used as jam nuts.    

A half moon will be welded to the base to keep the spring in position. 

Every part you have seen in this valve system could have been safely made with hacksaws and files. (It would not have taken that long with files and hack saws so there is no reason to use the method I have just used. To produce the tower drill a hole near the top of the grove and use a hack saw to cut out the long sliver.Fixing the fulcrum would be about the same. the base could obviously been done by 100% hacksaw and file work.)  What you have seen with a chop saw is a quick production process only usable for a time of emergency. In my book I describe how to make a Sub Machine Gun (SMG) bolt by hand with files, a hack saw, and an electric drill. It was copied from a de-milled WWII SMG. In an emergency you do not have to settle for a single shot weapon. This gun would take from a few days to week to produce at home. Other guns are listed as well that could be made in a few hours. I made it a point not to completely finish any parts on the SMG so as not to be in violation of any obscure laws that I might not known about. 

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A Blog has the ability to up date material and even though time has passed and this is an old post I noticed that a lot of people will only view one page and move on. So it seemed practical to place a photo of the finished product on each post.   

  Richard W Norman  

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